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  3. BIFL cookware (pots & pans) for induction

BIFL cookware (pots & pans) for induction

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  • maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
    maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
    maltfield@slrpnk.net
    wrote sidst redigeret af maltfield@slrpnk.net
    #1

    What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

    I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

    1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
    2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
    3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
    4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
    5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
    6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
    7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
    8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
    9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
    10. NSF certified

    From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

    5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

    And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

    Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

    But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

    So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

    • Browne Thermalloy
    • All-Clad
    • Made-in
    • Tramontina
    • Cuisinart
    • Other?

    Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

    S raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR C T modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM 20 Replies Last reply
    47
    • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

      What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

      I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

      1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
      2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
      3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
      4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
      5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
      6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
      7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
      8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
      9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
      10. NSF certified

      From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

      5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

      And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

      Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

      But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

      So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

      • Browne Thermalloy
      • All-Clad
      • Made-in
      • Tramontina
      • Cuisinart
      • Other?

      Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

      S This user is from outside of this forum
      S This user is from outside of this forum
      solrize@lemmy.ml
      wrote sidst redigeret af solrize@lemmy.ml
      #2

      Is BIFL now just a euphemism for “expensive”? Buy anything steel or iron without nonstick coatings and take care of it, and it won’t wear out. Most of my cooking stuff came from thrift stores or flea markets.

      Aluminum won’t work on an induction cooker, I’m pretty sure. Anyway, on a normal electric or gas cooktop, you can melt it by accident. So I’d stay away.

      I don’t have induction so can’t report from experience, but I’m not sure how much heat conductivity matters on an induction cooker. The heat is generated in the pot itself rather than conducted up from a hot cooktop.

      I think it doesn’t matter much for regular cooking either, unless you’re doing some gourmet shenanigans that require precision. I use stainless steel for some things and it’s fine for my low tech purposes. Cast iron is similar, I think.

      C C N 3 Replies Last reply
      23
      • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

        What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

        I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

        1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
        2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
        3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
        4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
        5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
        6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
        7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
        8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
        9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
        10. NSF certified

        From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

        5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

        And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

        Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

        But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

        So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

        • Browne Thermalloy
        • All-Clad
        • Made-in
        • Tramontina
        • Cuisinart
        • Other?

        Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

        raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR This user is from outside of this forum
        raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR This user is from outside of this forum
        raspberry_confetti@lemmy.ml
        wrote sidst redigeret af
        #3

        Carbon steel or cast iron for induction. Both need to be seasoned, but that’s not a big deal.

        the_che_banana@beehaw.orgT maltfield@slrpnk.netM 2 Replies Last reply
        14
        • raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR raspberry_confetti@lemmy.ml

          Carbon steel or cast iron for induction. Both need to be seasoned, but that’s not a big deal.

          the_che_banana@beehaw.orgT This user is from outside of this forum
          the_che_banana@beehaw.orgT This user is from outside of this forum
          the_che_banana@beehaw.org
          wrote sidst redigeret af
          #4

          These are the two answers

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • S solrize@lemmy.ml

            Is BIFL now just a euphemism for “expensive”? Buy anything steel or iron without nonstick coatings and take care of it, and it won’t wear out. Most of my cooking stuff came from thrift stores or flea markets.

            Aluminum won’t work on an induction cooker, I’m pretty sure. Anyway, on a normal electric or gas cooktop, you can melt it by accident. So I’d stay away.

            I don’t have induction so can’t report from experience, but I’m not sure how much heat conductivity matters on an induction cooker. The heat is generated in the pot itself rather than conducted up from a hot cooktop.

            I think it doesn’t matter much for regular cooking either, unless you’re doing some gourmet shenanigans that require precision. I use stainless steel for some things and it’s fine for my low tech purposes. Cast iron is similar, I think.

            C This user is from outside of this forum
            C This user is from outside of this forum
            cymbal_king@lemmy.world
            wrote sidst redigeret af
            #5

            Second the thrift store stainless steel and cast iron and have an induction cooktop. Much more economical than a brand new top of the line cookware. They still last a good amount of time (haven’t had one fail yet) and IF they fail, replacing with another thrift store pan is also pretty inexpensive.

            Just bring a magnet to the store with you. If it sticks to the bottom then it’ll work with induction

            raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR S 2 Replies Last reply
            10
            • C cymbal_king@lemmy.world

              Second the thrift store stainless steel and cast iron and have an induction cooktop. Much more economical than a brand new top of the line cookware. They still last a good amount of time (haven’t had one fail yet) and IF they fail, replacing with another thrift store pan is also pretty inexpensive.

              Just bring a magnet to the store with you. If it sticks to the bottom then it’ll work with induction

              raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR This user is from outside of this forum
              raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR This user is from outside of this forum
              raspberry_confetti@lemmy.ml
              wrote sidst redigeret af
              #6

              Just as a point for the OP: most stainless won’t work on induction. Test it with a magnet before you buy. If a magnet won’t stick to it, induction won’t work.

              modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM 1 Reply Last reply
              4
              • raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR raspberry_confetti@lemmy.ml

                Carbon steel or cast iron for induction. Both need to be seasoned, but that’s not a big deal.

                maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
                maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
                maltfield@slrpnk.net
                wrote sidst redigeret af maltfield@slrpnk.net
                #7

                I guess I should have mentioned that this is for a community house whose kitchen will be shared with others.

                I’m afraid one of my younger housemates will break the induction glass cooktop with cast iron. And I certainly can’t expect them to take care of the seasonings on the pans. That’s why I was thinking (3-ply) stainless steel. It’s more, err, forgiving

                raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR 2 Replies Last reply
                8
                • S solrize@lemmy.ml

                  Is BIFL now just a euphemism for “expensive”? Buy anything steel or iron without nonstick coatings and take care of it, and it won’t wear out. Most of my cooking stuff came from thrift stores or flea markets.

                  Aluminum won’t work on an induction cooker, I’m pretty sure. Anyway, on a normal electric or gas cooktop, you can melt it by accident. So I’d stay away.

                  I don’t have induction so can’t report from experience, but I’m not sure how much heat conductivity matters on an induction cooker. The heat is generated in the pot itself rather than conducted up from a hot cooktop.

                  I think it doesn’t matter much for regular cooking either, unless you’re doing some gourmet shenanigans that require precision. I use stainless steel for some things and it’s fine for my low tech purposes. Cast iron is similar, I think.

                  C This user is from outside of this forum
                  C This user is from outside of this forum
                  camerondev@programming.dev
                  wrote sidst redigeret af
                  #8

                  As long as there is a layer of magnetic steel, it will work fine on induction.

                  I don’t think your gonna accidentally melt aluminium either, getting it up to 660c on a stovetop is a feat requiring a serious effort.

                  S 1 Reply Last reply
                  6
                  • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                    What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

                    I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

                    1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
                    2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
                    3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
                    4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
                    5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
                    6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
                    7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
                    8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
                    9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
                    10. NSF certified

                    From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

                    5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

                    And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

                    Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

                    But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

                    So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

                    • Browne Thermalloy
                    • All-Clad
                    • Made-in
                    • Tramontina
                    • Cuisinart
                    • Other?

                    Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

                    C This user is from outside of this forum
                    C This user is from outside of this forum
                    camerondev@programming.dev
                    wrote sidst redigeret af
                    #9

                    How are rivets serviceable, and what is wrong with welded?

                    maltfield@slrpnk.netM 1 Reply Last reply
                    6
                    • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                      I guess I should have mentioned that this is for a community house whose kitchen will be shared with others.

                      I’m afraid one of my younger housemates will break the induction glass cooktop with cast iron. And I certainly can’t expect them to take care of the seasonings on the pans. That’s why I was thinking (3-ply) stainless steel. It’s more, err, forgiving

                      raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR This user is from outside of this forum
                      raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR This user is from outside of this forum
                      raspberry_confetti@lemmy.ml
                      wrote sidst redigeret af
                      #10

                      It is, but stainless doesn’t work with induction. There are some stainless alloys that do, but they do rust and take more effort than true stainless. If a magnet won’t stick to it, it won’t work with induction.

                      modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM 1 Reply Last reply
                      1
                      • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                        What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

                        I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

                        1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
                        2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
                        3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
                        4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
                        5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
                        6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
                        7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
                        8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
                        9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
                        10. NSF certified

                        From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

                        5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

                        And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

                        Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

                        But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

                        So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

                        • Browne Thermalloy
                        • All-Clad
                        • Made-in
                        • Tramontina
                        • Cuisinart
                        • Other?

                        Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

                        T This user is from outside of this forum
                        T This user is from outside of this forum
                        toiletobserver@lemmy.world
                        wrote sidst redigeret af
                        #11

                        I have all clad, but i hear nitrogen hardened steel is better. Cast iron does uneven heating from what i hear.

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        1
                        • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                          I guess I should have mentioned that this is for a community house whose kitchen will be shared with others.

                          I’m afraid one of my younger housemates will break the induction glass cooktop with cast iron. And I certainly can’t expect them to take care of the seasonings on the pans. That’s why I was thinking (3-ply) stainless steel. It’s more, err, forgiving

                          raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR This user is from outside of this forum
                          raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR This user is from outside of this forum
                          raspberry_confetti@lemmy.ml
                          wrote sidst redigeret af
                          #12

                          Also, if you’re looking for something light and strong, carbon steel is your answer. It’s still going to need seasoning, but it’s a lot lighter than cast iron.

                          E 1 Reply Last reply
                          5
                          • C camerondev@programming.dev

                            How are rivets serviceable, and what is wrong with welded?

                            maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
                            maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
                            maltfield@slrpnk.net
                            wrote sidst redigeret af maltfield@slrpnk.net
                            #13

                            New rivets can be made with a rivet gun forever. You can also re-weld, but it’s harder (and you’re more likely to damage the pot if you don’t do a good job welding it).

                            modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM C 2 Replies Last reply
                            2
                            • raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR raspberry_confetti@lemmy.ml

                              It is, but stainless doesn’t work with induction. There are some stainless alloys that do, but they do rust and take more effort than true stainless. If a magnet won’t stick to it, it won’t work with induction.

                              modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM This user is from outside of this forum
                              modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM This user is from outside of this forum
                              modem_down@thebrainbin.org
                              wrote sidst redigeret af modem_down@thebrainbin.org
                              #14

                              OP, ignore this person.

                              Many stainless pots and pans work just fine with induction hobs - including lots of older stainless cookware from the years before induction hobs were popular.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              4
                              • C camerondev@programming.dev

                                As long as there is a layer of magnetic steel, it will work fine on induction.

                                I don’t think your gonna accidentally melt aluminium either, getting it up to 660c on a stovetop is a feat requiring a serious effort.

                                S This user is from outside of this forum
                                S This user is from outside of this forum
                                solrize@lemmy.ml
                                wrote sidst redigeret af
                                #15

                                Yes you can melt aluminum cookware by accident. Ask me how I know. Well you can probably guess.

                                C 1 Reply Last reply
                                5
                                • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                                  New rivets can be made with a rivet gun forever. You can also re-weld, but it’s harder (and you’re more likely to damage the pot if you don’t do a good job welding it).

                                  modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM This user is from outside of this forum
                                  modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM This user is from outside of this forum
                                  modem_down@thebrainbin.org
                                  wrote sidst redigeret af modem_down@thebrainbin.org
                                  #16

                                  A good stainless steel weld is VERY unlikely to ever break or need repair. My welded stainless pans are decades old.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  7
                                  • C cymbal_king@lemmy.world

                                    Second the thrift store stainless steel and cast iron and have an induction cooktop. Much more economical than a brand new top of the line cookware. They still last a good amount of time (haven’t had one fail yet) and IF they fail, replacing with another thrift store pan is also pretty inexpensive.

                                    Just bring a magnet to the store with you. If it sticks to the bottom then it’ll work with induction

                                    S This user is from outside of this forum
                                    S This user is from outside of this forum
                                    solrize@lemmy.ml
                                    wrote sidst redigeret af solrize@lemmy.ml
                                    #17

                                    haven’t had one fail yet

                                    It it even possible for an uncoated pot or pan to fail, other than by melting? Ok I’ve had some handles come loose, but that’s tolerable or probably fixable.

                                    C E I 3 Replies Last reply
                                    4
                                    • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                                      What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

                                      I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

                                      1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
                                      2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
                                      3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
                                      4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
                                      5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
                                      6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
                                      7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
                                      8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
                                      9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
                                      10. NSF certified

                                      From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

                                      5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

                                      And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

                                      Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

                                      But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

                                      So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

                                      • Browne Thermalloy
                                      • All-Clad
                                      • Made-in
                                      • Tramontina
                                      • Cuisinart
                                      • Other?

                                      Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

                                      modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM This user is from outside of this forum
                                      modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM This user is from outside of this forum
                                      modem_down@thebrainbin.org
                                      wrote sidst redigeret af modem_down@thebrainbin.org
                                      #18

                                      Ikea 365+ stainless is good value, induction-compatible, and IME lasts for decades despite abuse from careless housemates.

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      9
                                      • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                                        New rivets can be made with a rivet gun forever. You can also re-weld, but it’s harder (and you’re more likely to damage the pot if you don’t do a good job welding it).

                                        C This user is from outside of this forum
                                        C This user is from outside of this forum
                                        camerondev@programming.dev
                                        wrote sidst redigeret af
                                        #19

                                        But the rivets in most pans aren’t the same as the rivets in a consumer rivet gun?

                                        B 1 Reply Last reply
                                        2
                                        • S solrize@lemmy.ml

                                          Yes you can melt aluminum cookware by accident. Ask me how I know. Well you can probably guess.

                                          C This user is from outside of this forum
                                          C This user is from outside of this forum
                                          camerondev@programming.dev
                                          wrote sidst redigeret af
                                          #20

                                          Can I ask how you did it? I’ve used aluminium pans on gas and induction, never got it close to melting. The coating would have smelt awful long before it got close to melting.

                                          S 1 Reply Last reply
                                          4
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