#LearnLockpickingWithAlice lesson 11: Shimming shit ('cause ain't nobody got time for dial locks).
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@kkarhan well, it *is* possible, but that fucking sucked, and I wouldn't recommend it.
I broke two nails, and my wrists are pretty chewed up.
Pop tabs will work, but they're brittle and I did one side, then broke two tabs trying to get the other.
To make it work, you have to break the tab lengthwise, then bend one side into an L shape without breaking it off in the keyway. It took like 15 minutes, and three tabs. If I practiced this, I bet I could to it fairly consistently—but I don't think my wrists can take that abuse without some serious motivation.
@alice wow!
Still, that's really impressive...
And certainly less dangerous and more realistic than firing a gun at point blank range on the cuffs, which would most likely not do shit, jam the lock or get dangerous shrapnels at one's wrists.- Still, being able to spontaneously do it is evidence that it is feasible and propably only needs refinement and exercise.
TYSM for that demonstation.
- I guess we all can't wait for some sick #LockSport montage / instructable on that someday...
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@alice wow!
Still, that's really impressive...
And certainly less dangerous and more realistic than firing a gun at point blank range on the cuffs, which would most likely not do shit, jam the lock or get dangerous shrapnels at one's wrists.- Still, being able to spontaneously do it is evidence that it is feasible and propably only needs refinement and exercise.
TYSM for that demonstation.
- I guess we all can't wait for some sick #LockSport montage / instructable on that someday...
@kkarhan having tried it, I would probably look for any other options first, like a paperclip, binder clip, piece of plastic, etc.
The pop tab runs too high a risk of breaking, or worse, breaking off inside the cuff.
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@kkarhan having tried it, I would probably look for any other options first, like a paperclip, binder clip, piece of plastic, etc.
The pop tab runs too high a risk of breaking, or worse, breaking off inside the cuff.
@alice OFC, but still impressive and given the sircumstances it's a last-ditch - option.
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#LearnLockpickingWithAlice lesson 11: Shimming shit ('cause ain't nobody got time for dial locks).
Plenty of old or cheap locks can be shimmed, but the place this technique shines most is with those front-dial combination locks. Sure, you can look up the model number, find some arcane YouTube video, and spend 30 minutes decoding it (both the video *and* the lock)...
...or you can do a little shimming fuckery and have it open in seconds.
To shim a lock, you'll need two things: a shimmable lock, and something to shim it with.
So how do I tell if a lock is able to be shimmed? Well, there are three main types of locking mechanisms on padlocks: ballbearing, spring-loaded, and warded (which you can see an example of in lesson 10). We want the spring-loaded kind.
The easy way to tell the spring-loaded ones from the ballbearing is that the cutouts in the shackle will look like either an upside-down "7" or a "]" for the pawl, instead of a ")" which indicates a ball-bearing lock. This matters because if the only thing keeping the locking pawl (that little metal bit that grabs the shackle's cutout) in place is a stiff spring, then the only thing between us and opening the lock is reaching it.
How do we reach that pawl? With a little piece of metal called a padlock shim. They look like a little mouth with a blep
at the bottom—and like A Christmas Story, we want to get it right up against that pole.How to shim a padlock:
- Insert the shim with the tongue facing away from the mechanism (toward the outside).
- Pinch the wings so it hugs the shackle.
- Push it down as far as it will go.
- Rotate/work it toward the inside of the lock while keeping pressure on it.
- Wiggle and press down on the shackle a bit to help it slide in.Once it’s in:
- Hold the shim in place.
- Give the shackle a firm yank—and probably send your shim flying."Wtf, Alice, it didn't work?! How could you lie to me?"
Okay, slow down. There are a few reasons for that.
First, the mechanism might be on the other side of the shackle—or even on both sides.
If it's still not working, the shim either isn’t deep enough, isn’t long enough, or the lock isn’t spring-loaded.
Additionally, some locks are *technically* shimmable, but the clearance around the shackle is too narrow to fit a shim in. In this case, a thinner shim, or a narrow pokey piece of metal might still work.
Finally, this lesson wouldn't be complete without mentioning that padlock shims are a disposable resource. They *will* break—sometimes after only a couple uses. If you're lucky, they'll last for dozens of attempts though.
Which leads me to my friend, @deviantollam, who is well-known for making shims out of soda or beer cans. These shims are fragile, but they'll work in a pinch and only take a moment to make. If you're good, you can even tear a can into a close enough shape for the job—just be careful, those fuckers are *sharp*.
@alice @deviantollam wooww good
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#LearnLockpickingWithAlice lesson 11: Shimming shit ('cause ain't nobody got time for dial locks).
Plenty of old or cheap locks can be shimmed, but the place this technique shines most is with those front-dial combination locks. Sure, you can look up the model number, find some arcane YouTube video, and spend 30 minutes decoding it (both the video *and* the lock)...
...or you can do a little shimming fuckery and have it open in seconds.
To shim a lock, you'll need two things: a shimmable lock, and something to shim it with.
So how do I tell if a lock is able to be shimmed? Well, there are three main types of locking mechanisms on padlocks: ballbearing, spring-loaded, and warded (which you can see an example of in lesson 10). We want the spring-loaded kind.
The easy way to tell the spring-loaded ones from the ballbearing is that the cutouts in the shackle will look like either an upside-down "7" or a "]" for the pawl, instead of a ")" which indicates a ball-bearing lock. This matters because if the only thing keeping the locking pawl (that little metal bit that grabs the shackle's cutout) in place is a stiff spring, then the only thing between us and opening the lock is reaching it.
How do we reach that pawl? With a little piece of metal called a padlock shim. They look like a little mouth with a blep
at the bottom—and like A Christmas Story, we want to get it right up against that pole.How to shim a padlock:
- Insert the shim with the tongue facing away from the mechanism (toward the outside).
- Pinch the wings so it hugs the shackle.
- Push it down as far as it will go.
- Rotate/work it toward the inside of the lock while keeping pressure on it.
- Wiggle and press down on the shackle a bit to help it slide in.Once it’s in:
- Hold the shim in place.
- Give the shackle a firm yank—and probably send your shim flying."Wtf, Alice, it didn't work?! How could you lie to me?"
Okay, slow down. There are a few reasons for that.
First, the mechanism might be on the other side of the shackle—or even on both sides.
If it's still not working, the shim either isn’t deep enough, isn’t long enough, or the lock isn’t spring-loaded.
Additionally, some locks are *technically* shimmable, but the clearance around the shackle is too narrow to fit a shim in. In this case, a thinner shim, or a narrow pokey piece of metal might still work.
Finally, this lesson wouldn't be complete without mentioning that padlock shims are a disposable resource. They *will* break—sometimes after only a couple uses. If you're lucky, they'll last for dozens of attempts though.
Which leads me to my friend, @deviantollam, who is well-known for making shims out of soda or beer cans. These shims are fragile, but they'll work in a pinch and only take a moment to make. If you're good, you can even tear a can into a close enough shape for the job—just be careful, those fuckers are *sharp*.
@alice @deviantollam I've done loads of spp, raking, bumping, impressioning etc but I've never mucked about with shimming... must put it on my to tinker with list!
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#LearnLockpickingWithAlice lesson 11: Shimming shit ('cause ain't nobody got time for dial locks).
Plenty of old or cheap locks can be shimmed, but the place this technique shines most is with those front-dial combination locks. Sure, you can look up the model number, find some arcane YouTube video, and spend 30 minutes decoding it (both the video *and* the lock)...
...or you can do a little shimming fuckery and have it open in seconds.
To shim a lock, you'll need two things: a shimmable lock, and something to shim it with.
So how do I tell if a lock is able to be shimmed? Well, there are three main types of locking mechanisms on padlocks: ballbearing, spring-loaded, and warded (which you can see an example of in lesson 10). We want the spring-loaded kind.
The easy way to tell the spring-loaded ones from the ballbearing is that the cutouts in the shackle will look like either an upside-down "7" or a "]" for the pawl, instead of a ")" which indicates a ball-bearing lock. This matters because if the only thing keeping the locking pawl (that little metal bit that grabs the shackle's cutout) in place is a stiff spring, then the only thing between us and opening the lock is reaching it.
How do we reach that pawl? With a little piece of metal called a padlock shim. They look like a little mouth with a blep
at the bottom—and like A Christmas Story, we want to get it right up against that pole.How to shim a padlock:
- Insert the shim with the tongue facing away from the mechanism (toward the outside).
- Pinch the wings so it hugs the shackle.
- Push it down as far as it will go.
- Rotate/work it toward the inside of the lock while keeping pressure on it.
- Wiggle and press down on the shackle a bit to help it slide in.Once it’s in:
- Hold the shim in place.
- Give the shackle a firm yank—and probably send your shim flying."Wtf, Alice, it didn't work?! How could you lie to me?"
Okay, slow down. There are a few reasons for that.
First, the mechanism might be on the other side of the shackle—or even on both sides.
If it's still not working, the shim either isn’t deep enough, isn’t long enough, or the lock isn’t spring-loaded.
Additionally, some locks are *technically* shimmable, but the clearance around the shackle is too narrow to fit a shim in. In this case, a thinner shim, or a narrow pokey piece of metal might still work.
Finally, this lesson wouldn't be complete without mentioning that padlock shims are a disposable resource. They *will* break—sometimes after only a couple uses. If you're lucky, they'll last for dozens of attempts though.
Which leads me to my friend, @deviantollam, who is well-known for making shims out of soda or beer cans. These shims are fragile, but they'll work in a pinch and only take a moment to make. If you're good, you can even tear a can into a close enough shape for the job—just be careful, those fuckers are *sharp*.
@alice @deviantollam As a layperson I'm glad to see that it is still possible to open a lock using a "narrow pokey piece of metal", which I now gather is even the proper technical term - retains my faith in movie lock-picking.
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#LearnLockpickingWithAlice lesson 11: Shimming shit ('cause ain't nobody got time for dial locks).
Plenty of old or cheap locks can be shimmed, but the place this technique shines most is with those front-dial combination locks. Sure, you can look up the model number, find some arcane YouTube video, and spend 30 minutes decoding it (both the video *and* the lock)...
...or you can do a little shimming fuckery and have it open in seconds.
To shim a lock, you'll need two things: a shimmable lock, and something to shim it with.
So how do I tell if a lock is able to be shimmed? Well, there are three main types of locking mechanisms on padlocks: ballbearing, spring-loaded, and warded (which you can see an example of in lesson 10). We want the spring-loaded kind.
The easy way to tell the spring-loaded ones from the ballbearing is that the cutouts in the shackle will look like either an upside-down "7" or a "]" for the pawl, instead of a ")" which indicates a ball-bearing lock. This matters because if the only thing keeping the locking pawl (that little metal bit that grabs the shackle's cutout) in place is a stiff spring, then the only thing between us and opening the lock is reaching it.
How do we reach that pawl? With a little piece of metal called a padlock shim. They look like a little mouth with a blep
at the bottom—and like A Christmas Story, we want to get it right up against that pole.How to shim a padlock:
- Insert the shim with the tongue facing away from the mechanism (toward the outside).
- Pinch the wings so it hugs the shackle.
- Push it down as far as it will go.
- Rotate/work it toward the inside of the lock while keeping pressure on it.
- Wiggle and press down on the shackle a bit to help it slide in.Once it’s in:
- Hold the shim in place.
- Give the shackle a firm yank—and probably send your shim flying."Wtf, Alice, it didn't work?! How could you lie to me?"
Okay, slow down. There are a few reasons for that.
First, the mechanism might be on the other side of the shackle—or even on both sides.
If it's still not working, the shim either isn’t deep enough, isn’t long enough, or the lock isn’t spring-loaded.
Additionally, some locks are *technically* shimmable, but the clearance around the shackle is too narrow to fit a shim in. In this case, a thinner shim, or a narrow pokey piece of metal might still work.
Finally, this lesson wouldn't be complete without mentioning that padlock shims are a disposable resource. They *will* break—sometimes after only a couple uses. If you're lucky, they'll last for dozens of attempts though.
Which leads me to my friend, @deviantollam, who is well-known for making shims out of soda or beer cans. These shims are fragile, but they'll work in a pinch and only take a moment to make. If you're good, you can even tear a can into a close enough shape for the job—just be careful, those fuckers are *sharp*.
@alice I am both proud and concerned to say I couldn't find my suitcase key, so I shimmied it open with a little butter knife pendant in a matter of seconds
🫠🫠 -
@kkarhan well, it *is* possible, but that fucking sucked, and I wouldn't recommend it.
I broke two nails, and my wrists are pretty chewed up.
Pop tabs will work, but they're brittle and I did one side, then broke two tabs trying to get the other.
To make it work, you have to break the tab lengthwise, then bend one side into an L shape without breaking it off in the keyway. It took like 15 minutes, and three tabs. If I practiced this, I bet I could to it fairly consistently—but I don't think my wrists can take that abuse without some serious motivation.
@alice. You are amazing.
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@alice @deviantollam As a layperson I'm glad to see that it is still possible to open a lock using a "narrow pokey piece of metal", which I now gather is even the proper technical term - retains my faith in movie lock-picking.
@jwcph my girlfriends laugh every time lockpicking comes up on TV and I'm like
"they're doing it wrong!" -
@alice. You are amazing.
@mrfusion thank you
️ -
@jwcph my girlfriends laugh every time lockpicking comes up on TV and I'm like
"they're doing it wrong!" -
#LearnLockpickingWithAlice lesson 11: Shimming shit ('cause ain't nobody got time for dial locks).
Plenty of old or cheap locks can be shimmed, but the place this technique shines most is with those front-dial combination locks. Sure, you can look up the model number, find some arcane YouTube video, and spend 30 minutes decoding it (both the video *and* the lock)...
...or you can do a little shimming fuckery and have it open in seconds.
To shim a lock, you'll need two things: a shimmable lock, and something to shim it with.
So how do I tell if a lock is able to be shimmed? Well, there are three main types of locking mechanisms on padlocks: ballbearing, spring-loaded, and warded (which you can see an example of in lesson 10). We want the spring-loaded kind.
The easy way to tell the spring-loaded ones from the ballbearing is that the cutouts in the shackle will look like either an upside-down "7" or a "]" for the pawl, instead of a ")" which indicates a ball-bearing lock. This matters because if the only thing keeping the locking pawl (that little metal bit that grabs the shackle's cutout) in place is a stiff spring, then the only thing between us and opening the lock is reaching it.
How do we reach that pawl? With a little piece of metal called a padlock shim. They look like a little mouth with a blep
at the bottom—and like A Christmas Story, we want to get it right up against that pole.How to shim a padlock:
- Insert the shim with the tongue facing away from the mechanism (toward the outside).
- Pinch the wings so it hugs the shackle.
- Push it down as far as it will go.
- Rotate/work it toward the inside of the lock while keeping pressure on it.
- Wiggle and press down on the shackle a bit to help it slide in.Once it’s in:
- Hold the shim in place.
- Give the shackle a firm yank—and probably send your shim flying."Wtf, Alice, it didn't work?! How could you lie to me?"
Okay, slow down. There are a few reasons for that.
First, the mechanism might be on the other side of the shackle—or even on both sides.
If it's still not working, the shim either isn’t deep enough, isn’t long enough, or the lock isn’t spring-loaded.
Additionally, some locks are *technically* shimmable, but the clearance around the shackle is too narrow to fit a shim in. In this case, a thinner shim, or a narrow pokey piece of metal might still work.
Finally, this lesson wouldn't be complete without mentioning that padlock shims are a disposable resource. They *will* break—sometimes after only a couple uses. If you're lucky, they'll last for dozens of attempts though.
Which leads me to my friend, @deviantollam, who is well-known for making shims out of soda or beer cans. These shims are fragile, but they'll work in a pinch and only take a moment to make. If you're good, you can even tear a can into a close enough shape for the job—just be careful, those fuckers are *sharp*.
@alice @deviantollam Amazing - thanks!
Does anyone have any recommendations for a lock for a Pods unit?
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@alice @deviantollam Amazing - thanks!
Does anyone have any recommendations for a lock for a Pods unit?
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@deviantollam @alice Thank you - I’ll check it out.
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@deviantollam @alice Thank you - I’ll check it out.
@deviantollam @alice U-Pack (Pods alternative) suggests ¼” max shank diameter and 2” shank length, so the Abus 83/40 should work.
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@deviantollam @JYeo18 seconded.
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@deviantollam @alice U-Pack (Pods alternative) suggests ¼” max shank diameter and 2” shank length, so the Abus 83/40 should work.
@deviantollam @alice The Lock Source offers the following keyways for this lock. Are they all pretty much the same?
Yale (100), Kwikset (200), Schlage (300 & 306), Schlage Everest (EVER), Corbin Composite (400), Corbin L4 (410), Sargent (700), Weiser/Falcon (800), Arrow (900), Russwin D1-D4 (1000) or Schlage C-L (3000)
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@deviantollam @alice The Lock Source offers the following keyways for this lock. Are they all pretty much the same?
Yale (100), Kwikset (200), Schlage (300 & 306), Schlage Everest (EVER), Corbin Composite (400), Corbin L4 (410), Sargent (700), Weiser/Falcon (800), Arrow (900), Russwin D1-D4 (1000) or Schlage C-L (3000)
@JYeo18 that mostly just makes a difference for key control. Some are harder to pick because they have restricted keyways that don't allow much room to work—but picking is almost never going to be your concern in these cases.
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@JYeo18 that mostly just makes a difference for key control. Some are harder to pick because they have restricted keyways that don't allow much room to work—but picking is almost never going to be your concern in these cases.
@alice @deviantollam Thank you. Love you all!
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@JYeo18 that mostly just makes a difference for key control. Some are harder to pick because they have restricted keyways that don't allow much room to work—but picking is almost never going to be your concern in these cases.
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J jwcph@helvede.net shared this topic
