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  3. BIFL cookware (pots & pans) for induction

BIFL cookware (pots & pans) for induction

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  • S solrize@lemmy.ml

    Regular electric stove, the kind with the resistance coils. I left a pot on top and the contents boiled away and then a big chunk of the pot bottom melted.

    C This user is from outside of this forum
    C This user is from outside of this forum
    camerondev@programming.dev
    wrote sidst redigeret af
    #38

    I think I’m more impressed with your stove then 😄

    1 Reply Last reply
    7
    • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

      What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

      I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

      1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
      2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
      3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
      4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
      5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
      6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
      7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
      8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
      9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
      10. NSF certified

      From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

      5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

      And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

      Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

      But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

      So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

      • Browne Thermalloy
      • All-Clad
      • Made-in
      • Tramontina
      • Cuisinart
      • Other?

      Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

      F This user is from outside of this forum
      F This user is from outside of this forum
      fourish@lemmy.world
      wrote sidst redigeret af
      #39

      Induction? Cast iron. That is all.

      We have a few stainless pots that work (check with a magnet). Not sure if the stainless ones are true bifl (the cast iron certainly is) but they’ve been going strong for about 10 years long with regular cooking and cleaning in the dishwasher (no not the cast iron).

      T E 2 Replies Last reply
      3
      • F fourish@lemmy.world

        Induction? Cast iron. That is all.

        We have a few stainless pots that work (check with a magnet). Not sure if the stainless ones are true bifl (the cast iron certainly is) but they’ve been going strong for about 10 years long with regular cooking and cleaning in the dishwasher (no not the cast iron).

        T This user is from outside of this forum
        T This user is from outside of this forum
        tyrant@lemmy.world
        wrote sidst redigeret af
        #40

        I have induction and use cast. It’s great. Better than any other material in my experience. There are nuts out there that make you think it’s a cult or you need to do very specific things to clean it but it’s actually really easy. I just wash it in the sink like normal and then put some oil back on it. Simple, good for induction, naturally non stick

        1 Reply Last reply
        2
        • F fourish@lemmy.world

          Induction? Cast iron. That is all.

          We have a few stainless pots that work (check with a magnet). Not sure if the stainless ones are true bifl (the cast iron certainly is) but they’ve been going strong for about 10 years long with regular cooking and cleaning in the dishwasher (no not the cast iron).

          E This user is from outside of this forum
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          emma_gold_man@lemmy.dbzer0.com
          wrote sidst redigeret af emma_gold_man@lemmy.dbzer0.com
          #41

          Cast iron is great for induction IF you know how to use them together. To avoid cracking your pan, start the stove on a lower setting, let the pan heat, then raise higher if you need it.

          The issue is thermal expansion. Induction cooktops can heat the pan faster than gas or thermoelectric, but only where the coil is (no heat passing up the outside of the sides). Cast iron conducts this heat relatively slowly, so the bottom of the pan heats and expands slightly while the sides (or parts of the bottom not directly over the coil) take longer to do the same. The thickness of most cast iron can exacerbate the issue, as even the top surface is expanding more slowly than the bottom near the coil.

          Cast iron is harder (more rigid) and also more brittle than carbon or stainless steel, so this can lead to microfractures that grow larger over repeated cycles.

          As long as you know to raise the heat slowly, they’re a great combination. Hard learned lesson for me though - lost an antique 15" that was my main daily driver

          1 Reply Last reply
          5
          • raspberry_confetti@lemmy.mlR raspberry_confetti@lemmy.ml

            Also, if you’re looking for something light and strong, carbon steel is your answer. It’s still going to need seasoning, but it’s a lot lighter than cast iron.

            E This user is from outside of this forum
            E This user is from outside of this forum
            emma_gold_man@lemmy.dbzer0.com
            wrote sidst redigeret af
            #42

            I keep hearing this, and had the pleasure of using someone else’s large, lightweight carbon steel pan for a while - it was a dream! Then I went to buy one, and all the new ones I can find are shockingly thick and heavy by comparison. I love my carbon steel wok, but just can’t seem to find frying pans anywhere near as thin and light.

            Any suggestions? Preferably in Europe. Stretch goal: welded rather than riveted handle. I have family members who aren’t comfortable with my level of clean-up, and crust at the edge of the rivets seems to be a sore point.

            1 Reply Last reply
            5
            • S solrize@lemmy.ml

              haven’t had one fail yet

              It it even possible for an uncoated pot or pan to fail, other than by melting? Ok I’ve had some handles come loose, but that’s tolerable or probably fixable.

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              emma_gold_man@lemmy.dbzer0.com
              wrote sidst redigeret af emma_gold_man@lemmy.dbzer0.com
              #43

              Yes, actually! Uneven heat is the culprit. See my reply above about cast iron failure on induction. Very thin carbon steel pans can warp for similar reasons, and I would assume the same for large, empty aluminum pans on very high heat (though I haven’t seen that reported. The solution in both cases is to start on a lower setting and raise the temperature gradually.

              The warping may be why thin, round-bottomed carbon steel woks are easy to find but the same doesn’t seem to be true of flat-bottomed frying pans.

              1 Reply Last reply
              3
              • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

                I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

                1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
                2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
                3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
                4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
                5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
                6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
                7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
                8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
                9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
                10. NSF certified

                From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

                5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

                And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

                Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

                But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

                So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

                • Browne Thermalloy
                • All-Clad
                • Made-in
                • Tramontina
                • Cuisinart
                • Other?

                Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

                R This user is from outside of this forum
                R This user is from outside of this forum
                randombullet@programming.dev
                wrote sidst redigeret af
                #44

                I have a Demeyere Industry pan.

                It’s fully 5 layers of steel and aluminum with a welded handle.

                No rivets as they get loose all the time. Plus I hate the fats and oils that get in there with no way to clean them. Plus utensils get caught in it when you’re making thicker sauces.

                They are also found in the commercial kitchen industry.

                I’ve baked with it, fried in it, abused it petty hard, and never gives me an issue.

                maltfield@slrpnk.netM 1 Reply Last reply
                4
                • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                  What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

                  I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

                  1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
                  2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
                  3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
                  4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
                  5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
                  6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
                  7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
                  8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
                  9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
                  10. NSF certified

                  From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

                  5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

                  And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

                  Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

                  But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

                  So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

                  • Browne Thermalloy
                  • All-Clad
                  • Made-in
                  • Tramontina
                  • Cuisinart
                  • Other?

                  Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

                  P This user is from outside of this forum
                  P This user is from outside of this forum
                  pomfegranate@sh.itjust.works
                  wrote sidst redigeret af
                  #45

                  Might I suggest a strata carbon steel clad pan? Their normal pan (don’t get their work) is stainless steel bottomed, aluminium cored, and carbon steel topped. You can season your pan and truly become attached to it; if you fuck up, you can just restart. As a bonus, it’s as light as a normal pan instead of carbon steel or the chonky cast iron. Only bad thing is that the edge is unsealed, but that’s really only an issue if you dishwash it. You shouldn’t be dishwashing carbon steel anyways.

                  I think if you want BIFL, it has to have seasoning in some way. Even stainless steel pits (pitts?).

                  Even when I moved on from my cast iron to the above pan, I still use my old one at my pops place

                  P C 2 Replies Last reply
                  1
                  • P pomfegranate@sh.itjust.works

                    Might I suggest a strata carbon steel clad pan? Their normal pan (don’t get their work) is stainless steel bottomed, aluminium cored, and carbon steel topped. You can season your pan and truly become attached to it; if you fuck up, you can just restart. As a bonus, it’s as light as a normal pan instead of carbon steel or the chonky cast iron. Only bad thing is that the edge is unsealed, but that’s really only an issue if you dishwash it. You shouldn’t be dishwashing carbon steel anyways.

                    I think if you want BIFL, it has to have seasoning in some way. Even stainless steel pits (pitts?).

                    Even when I moved on from my cast iron to the above pan, I still use my old one at my pops place

                    P This user is from outside of this forum
                    P This user is from outside of this forum
                    pomfegranate@sh.itjust.works
                    wrote sidst redigeret af
                    #46

                    Nvm just saw the part about housemates. Beware that most people that I know can only cook in non-stick, which is violently not BIFL

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    1
                    • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                      What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

                      I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

                      1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
                      2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
                      3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
                      4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
                      5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
                      6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
                      7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
                      8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
                      9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
                      10. NSF certified

                      From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

                      5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

                      And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

                      Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

                      But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

                      So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

                      • Browne Thermalloy
                      • All-Clad
                      • Made-in
                      • Tramontina
                      • Cuisinart
                      • Other?

                      Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

                      A This user is from outside of this forum
                      A This user is from outside of this forum
                      apollo98@sh.itjust.works
                      wrote sidst redigeret af
                      #47

                      Not sure if they ship to you but I’ve had good experiences with Greenpan.us

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      2
                      • S solrize@lemmy.ml

                        Is BIFL now just a euphemism for “expensive”? Buy anything steel or iron without nonstick coatings and take care of it, and it won’t wear out. Most of my cooking stuff came from thrift stores or flea markets.

                        Aluminum won’t work on an induction cooker, I’m pretty sure. Anyway, on a normal electric or gas cooktop, you can melt it by accident. So I’d stay away.

                        I don’t have induction so can’t report from experience, but I’m not sure how much heat conductivity matters on an induction cooker. The heat is generated in the pot itself rather than conducted up from a hot cooktop.

                        I think it doesn’t matter much for regular cooking either, unless you’re doing some gourmet shenanigans that require precision. I use stainless steel for some things and it’s fine for my low tech purposes. Cast iron is similar, I think.

                        N This user is from outside of this forum
                        N This user is from outside of this forum
                        noodles@slrpnk.net
                        wrote sidst redigeret af
                        #48

                        I think there are two mindsets in BIFL communities that somewhat diametrically oppose each other. There’s the “I’m tired of buying cheap crap that falls apart when I use it; recommend me an economical drop in that I can mildly abuse and it won’t fall apart,” and there’s the “I have some money and want to spend it wisely on really nice stuff that my descendents will fight over because it’s so nice and still going strong.”

                        Obviously there are others and it’s a continuum, but I think a lot of people talk past each other because they might recommend e.g. hugely expensive heirloom pans for your great grandkids to admire, when what OP wants is something that can take a beating from randos and still work fine or be recoverable. Or, conversely, someone else might be looking for that recommendation of beautiful sauciers to proudly have on display on their pot rack, and what they’re recommended is crusty thrift-store lodges that they have to refinish themselves.

                        G S 2 Replies Last reply
                        14
                        • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                          What’s your favorite brand of BIFL cookware for induction?

                          I’m looking to upgrade my kitchen with industrial-quality pots and pans. After about a month of searching, I came to the conclusion that the most important requirements are:

                          1. 3-ply (or 5-ply). Fully clad (not just the bottom disc).
                          2. 18/8 or 18/10 stainless steel on the inside
                          3. 18/0 (or 200- or 400-grade) magnetic stainless steel on the outside.
                          4. Thick layers of metal (ideally >= 3mm of aluminum)
                          5. Strong, serviceable rivets on handles (not welded)
                          6. Handles on both sides of the pot (helper handle)
                          7. Handles have a hole in them on the end (for hanging)
                          8. Fits a 28 cm (or 11”) lid (easily replaceable standard size that’s interchangeable between metric and dumb units)
                          9. Top rim should either have a pour spout or flared lip (for easier pouring)
                          10. NSF certified

                          From what I’ve read, stainless steel isn’t a very good conductor (NIST says that aluminum transfers heat 16x better than stainless steel). But stainless steel is a better surface to cook-on, because it’s less reactive and won’t absorb flavours. So, 3-ply sandwiches a thick aluminum layer between two different types of stainless steel (nickle-free [eg 18/0 or 200- or 400-grade] on the outside, which – though less corrosion resistant – is important for it to work on an induction cooktop) and either 18/8 or 18/10 on the inside.

                          5-ply is also a thing, but my research suggests that it doesn’t really matter how many layers. What’s more important is the thickness of the material.

                          And that’s why I’m here. Because, confoundedly, the manufacturers of these pots don’t seem to even know how thick the layers of their 3-ply cookware is!

                          Ideally I’d just find the technical specifications of their cookware on their website, make a spreadsheet, and then buy the one with the thickest material (or close to the thickest, depending on my trade-off between quality vs weight & cost).

                          But I’ve called maybe a dozen manufacturers, and none seem to know the specifications of their own cookware 😞

                          So, fediverse, I ask you: does anyone know what the thickness of the layers in these manufacturer’s 3-ply cookware is? Otherwise, what’s been your experience? How do you feel about these brands? Is there some other one (not listed) that you prefer?

                          • Browne Thermalloy
                          • All-Clad
                          • Made-in
                          • Tramontina
                          • Cuisinart
                          • Other?

                          Edit: I should be clear that I’m specifically asking about 3-ply or 5-ply stainless steel cookware. This is for a community house, so I need something that can be (ab)used by housemates who don’t know or care for the seasonings on the pans. And I don’t want cast iron, because it’s more likely to break the glass-topped induction cooktop.

                          L This user is from outside of this forum
                          L This user is from outside of this forum
                          lincolnsdogfido@lemmy.zip
                          wrote sidst redigeret af
                          #49

                          For what its worth Alton Brown and Chris Young, use All-Clad in their videos. Both are more “scientific” chefs. Alton is my preferred of the two, but both are more data driven than most chefs.

                          As for myself, I use cast iron when I need more thermal momentum, and stainless when it doesn’t matter as much. I’ve got a mix of All-Clad and one brand that I haven’t seen mentioned is Viking. They’ve both been excellent over the course of a few years, cooking 2-3 meals a day every day. The handles are still rock solid which I’ve found to be an issue with other cookware.

                          Bonus: both brands can be found in relative abundance at consignment stores for “cheap”. My cast iron is from local thrift stores or estate sales, but the stainless stuff I tend to buy “new” at Sierra or Home Goods. Each pot and or pan is somewhere in the neighborhood of $20-40 and is BIFL quality.

                          Alton discusses induction and pan interactions in this video
                          Chris’ dedicated video on his preferred pans

                          maltfield@slrpnk.netM 1 Reply Last reply
                          6
                          • L This user is from outside of this forum
                            L This user is from outside of this forum
                            lincolnsdogfido@lemmy.zip
                            wrote sidst redigeret af
                            #50

                            You’re very wrong. Aluminum does not work with induction. Its not ferrous so it can’t interact with the induction coils. Thats just scientific fact.

                            Many stainless pans do have an aluminum core, but they also have a ferrous metal layer that allows them to be compatible with induction burners. Its not the aluminum thats interacting with the induction top at all. The aluminum is just there for even heat distribution on gas and electric cooktops, or to cut weight and make them more user friendly.

                            modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM B 2 Replies Last reply
                            3
                            • R randombullet@programming.dev

                              I have a Demeyere Industry pan.

                              It’s fully 5 layers of steel and aluminum with a welded handle.

                              No rivets as they get loose all the time. Plus I hate the fats and oils that get in there with no way to clean them. Plus utensils get caught in it when you’re making thicker sauces.

                              They are also found in the commercial kitchen industry.

                              I’ve baked with it, fried in it, abused it petty hard, and never gives me an issue.

                              maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
                              maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
                              maltfield@slrpnk.net
                              wrote sidst redigeret af
                              #51

                              That brand kept coming in my research as having very thick layers.

                              R 1 Reply Last reply
                              3
                              • maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
                                maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
                                maltfield@slrpnk.net
                                wrote sidst redigeret af maltfield@slrpnk.net
                                #52

                                This article is great, thanks for sharing 🙂

                                Here’s the conclusion at the end:

                                What to buy instead

                                The counter-list in this category runs deeper than any I’ve covered previously, because cookware is simple enough that stubborn, family-run businesses can still compete. The pattern in who survived is uniform: nobody outside the family has ever been owed a return.
                                …

                                Stainless and carbon steel

                                • All-Clad: The bonded lines are still made in Canonsburg, Pennsylvania, sharp-rim settlement and French owner notwithstanding.
                                • Heritage Steel: Family-owned in Clarksville, Tennessee, building on old Vollrath tooling. The fully American clad alternative.
                                • Tramontina: Family-controlled in Brazil. The honest value play; their clad line embarrasses pans at twice the price.
                                • de Buyer: The carbon steel standard, still made in the Vosges. It belongs to Groupe SEB as of January 2025, so it’s one to watch over the next few years.
                                • Matfer Bourgeat: The French commercial standard, family-held, and what a lot of commercial kitchens use.

                                That said, Tramontina was one of the companies I contacted. They also said they didn’t know the thickness of the metal in their own cookware. Maybe I’d have a different experience if I called them in Brazil and spoke Portuguese 😕

                                I’m also shocked that the article doesn’t mention Browne Thermalloy. I think they’re one of the best cookware brands on the market, but I can’t find any third-party reviews on the Internet about them – except one small thread on reddit. Browne’s support couldn’t tell me the metal thickness in their 3-ply cookware, but they said they’d forward my request “to their marketing department” (not sure why not their “procurement” or “engineering” or “product” departments), and I haven’t heard back…

                                zier@fedia.ioZ 1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • L lincolnsdogfido@lemmy.zip

                                  For what its worth Alton Brown and Chris Young, use All-Clad in their videos. Both are more “scientific” chefs. Alton is my preferred of the two, but both are more data driven than most chefs.

                                  As for myself, I use cast iron when I need more thermal momentum, and stainless when it doesn’t matter as much. I’ve got a mix of All-Clad and one brand that I haven’t seen mentioned is Viking. They’ve both been excellent over the course of a few years, cooking 2-3 meals a day every day. The handles are still rock solid which I’ve found to be an issue with other cookware.

                                  Bonus: both brands can be found in relative abundance at consignment stores for “cheap”. My cast iron is from local thrift stores or estate sales, but the stainless stuff I tend to buy “new” at Sierra or Home Goods. Each pot and or pan is somewhere in the neighborhood of $20-40 and is BIFL quality.

                                  Alton discusses induction and pan interactions in this video
                                  Chris’ dedicated video on his preferred pans

                                  maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
                                  maltfield@slrpnk.netM This user is from outside of this forum
                                  maltfield@slrpnk.net
                                  wrote sidst redigeret af
                                  #53

                                  Unfortunately I can’t use YouTube. Do you have a link to the source articles? Or a video on PeerTube?

                                  L 1 Reply Last reply
                                  4
                                  • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                                    That brand kept coming in my research as having very thick layers.

                                    R This user is from outside of this forum
                                    R This user is from outside of this forum
                                    randombullet@programming.dev
                                    wrote sidst redigeret af
                                    #54

                                    If it’s any consolation the Ikea 365 stainless steel are my alternative workhorse. They’re cheap and abused as well. Maybe something replaceable but still sturdy is worthwhile.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    4
                                    • L lincolnsdogfido@lemmy.zip

                                      You’re very wrong. Aluminum does not work with induction. Its not ferrous so it can’t interact with the induction coils. Thats just scientific fact.

                                      Many stainless pans do have an aluminum core, but they also have a ferrous metal layer that allows them to be compatible with induction burners. Its not the aluminum thats interacting with the induction top at all. The aluminum is just there for even heat distribution on gas and electric cooktops, or to cut weight and make them more user friendly.

                                      modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM This user is from outside of this forum
                                      modem_down@thebrainbin.orgM This user is from outside of this forum
                                      modem_down@thebrainbin.org
                                      wrote sidst redigeret af modem_down@thebrainbin.org
                                      #55

                                      I’m willing to be corrected if I’m wrong.

                                      However, if you run a high current through a coiled mains extension cord, you create a fire hazard because it heats up due to induction. No ferrous metals involved, just the copper or aluminium conductors in the cable. Don’t induction hobs work on a similar principle?

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      1
                                      • maltfield@slrpnk.netM maltfield@slrpnk.net

                                        This article is great, thanks for sharing 🙂

                                        Here’s the conclusion at the end:

                                        What to buy instead

                                        The counter-list in this category runs deeper than any I’ve covered previously, because cookware is simple enough that stubborn, family-run businesses can still compete. The pattern in who survived is uniform: nobody outside the family has ever been owed a return.
                                        …

                                        Stainless and carbon steel

                                        • All-Clad: The bonded lines are still made in Canonsburg, Pennsylvania, sharp-rim settlement and French owner notwithstanding.
                                        • Heritage Steel: Family-owned in Clarksville, Tennessee, building on old Vollrath tooling. The fully American clad alternative.
                                        • Tramontina: Family-controlled in Brazil. The honest value play; their clad line embarrasses pans at twice the price.
                                        • de Buyer: The carbon steel standard, still made in the Vosges. It belongs to Groupe SEB as of January 2025, so it’s one to watch over the next few years.
                                        • Matfer Bourgeat: The French commercial standard, family-held, and what a lot of commercial kitchens use.

                                        That said, Tramontina was one of the companies I contacted. They also said they didn’t know the thickness of the metal in their own cookware. Maybe I’d have a different experience if I called them in Brazil and spoke Portuguese 😕

                                        I’m also shocked that the article doesn’t mention Browne Thermalloy. I think they’re one of the best cookware brands on the market, but I can’t find any third-party reviews on the Internet about them – except one small thread on reddit. Browne’s support couldn’t tell me the metal thickness in their 3-ply cookware, but they said they’d forward my request “to their marketing department” (not sure why not their “procurement” or “engineering” or “product” departments), and I haven’t heard back…

                                        zier@fedia.ioZ This user is from outside of this forum
                                        zier@fedia.ioZ This user is from outside of this forum
                                        zier@fedia.io
                                        wrote sidst redigeret af
                                        #56

                                        You’re welcome.
                                        I will add, not related to pans. I bought a set of 2 serrated steak knives about 12+ years ago, they are Tramontina and the quality has been amazing. Still sharp, no rust, looks almost new still.

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        2
                                        • P pomfegranate@sh.itjust.works

                                          Might I suggest a strata carbon steel clad pan? Their normal pan (don’t get their work) is stainless steel bottomed, aluminium cored, and carbon steel topped. You can season your pan and truly become attached to it; if you fuck up, you can just restart. As a bonus, it’s as light as a normal pan instead of carbon steel or the chonky cast iron. Only bad thing is that the edge is unsealed, but that’s really only an issue if you dishwash it. You shouldn’t be dishwashing carbon steel anyways.

                                          I think if you want BIFL, it has to have seasoning in some way. Even stainless steel pits (pitts?).

                                          Even when I moved on from my cast iron to the above pan, I still use my old one at my pops place

                                          C This user is from outside of this forum
                                          C This user is from outside of this forum
                                          christopher@lemmy.ca
                                          wrote sidst redigeret af
                                          #57

                                          Do you mean you shouldn’t put them in the dishwasher or fully submerge them in water?

                                          P 1 Reply Last reply
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