Recently, I got my hands on a free Ender 5 Pro, whose Z axis was so bent it looked like a forklift drove over it.
-
@3dprinting Is this what everyone posts on OnlyFans these days?
More seriously, I modified these from the Mercury One's feet. The changes were to use M3 instead of M5 fasteners to the frame, and replace the captive M5 nut with an M4 heatset so I could upcycle the feet from the Ender 5. Looks really fantastic, and adds yet more frame mass. Needed two M3x10s, plus one M4x12, together with two M3 hammer nuts.
23/n
@3dprinting With that, I can also install the Speedys that will run the Z axis. The brackets are of mismatched colours, but that's just how they came, and I'm not going to let metal motor brackets go to waste.
24/n
-
@3dprinting With that, I can also install the Speedys that will run the Z axis. The brackets are of mismatched colours, but that's just how they came, and I'm not going to let metal motor brackets go to waste.
24/n
@3dprinting So, slight rethink. I decided that I'd rather use the Z axis Speedys on the Y with this dual-Y mod: https://www.printables.com/model/520947-ender-5-plus-dual-y-axis-motor-mount/files . In the process, I discovered that the _only_ way to tension the Y belts on the Ender 5 involves _throwing your frame out of square_. Yes really. You have to remove a _structural_ component to _tension the belts_. Wtf Creality.
So yeah, more frame stripdown!
25/n
-
@3dprinting So, slight rethink. I decided that I'd rather use the Z axis Speedys on the Y with this dual-Y mod: https://www.printables.com/model/520947-ender-5-plus-dual-y-axis-motor-mount/files . In the process, I discovered that the _only_ way to tension the Y belts on the Ender 5 involves _throwing your frame out of square_. Yes really. You have to remove a _structural_ component to _tension the belts_. Wtf Creality.
So yeah, more frame stripdown!
25/n
@3dprinting In the meantime, I've been making progress on the EVA3 I'm going to use. The next step is to make mounts for the dual 5015 fans for part cooling, and also the duct, which will _likely_ be the Tri-Horn. The duct will be made of ASA, as PETG isn't really up to that task. I also need to mount a Biqu Microprobe I have lying around, which will involve both a BLTouch mount _and_ an adapter, because the jank will never cease.
26/n
-
@3dprinting In the meantime, I've been making progress on the EVA3 I'm going to use. The next step is to make mounts for the dual 5015 fans for part cooling, and also the duct, which will _likely_ be the Tri-Horn. The duct will be made of ASA, as PETG isn't really up to that task. I also need to mount a Biqu Microprobe I have lying around, which will involve both a BLTouch mount _and_ an adapter, because the jank will never cease.
26/n
@3dprinting Today has been a day of... interesting progress. The dual-Y mod is mounted, but is currently quite loose, as I cannot attach it from the top and bottom. The reason? The same M5x10s I need to finish reinforcing the frame.
I think this is _the_ first time I've had a build bottlenecked by _fasteners_. It's kind of absurd. More are on order, but Aliexpress takes a hot minute.
As an aside, this build is starting to look like something Ivan Miranda would make.
27/n
-
@3dprinting Today has been a day of... interesting progress. The dual-Y mod is mounted, but is currently quite loose, as I cannot attach it from the top and bottom. The reason? The same M5x10s I need to finish reinforcing the frame.
I think this is _the_ first time I've had a build bottlenecked by _fasteners_. It's kind of absurd. More are on order, but Aliexpress takes a hot minute.
As an aside, this build is starting to look like something Ivan Miranda would make.
27/n
@3dprinting I'm kind of freestyling here, as I don't (yet) have the idlers I need to do the mod properly. I also have to re-belt the Y, but that can wait until I can do the proper Stage 1 work.
One 'fun' discovery is that the Y assembly is weirdly structural on the Ender 5. This is most notable when looking closely at the dual Y. That bearing there is supporting _nothing_, but I can't remove that part, because it ensures the corner doesn't come off the pillar!
28/n
-
@3dprinting I'm kind of freestyling here, as I don't (yet) have the idlers I need to do the mod properly. I also have to re-belt the Y, but that can wait until I can do the proper Stage 1 work.
One 'fun' discovery is that the Y assembly is weirdly structural on the Ender 5. This is most notable when looking closely at the dual Y. That bearing there is supporting _nothing_, but I can't remove that part, because it ensures the corner doesn't come off the pillar!
28/n
@3dprinting The eagle-eyed among you might have noticed that the Speedys are gone from the Z axis. This is indeed what has happened, as the dual-Y mod is _definitely_ a better use of Speedys. I managed to find some random garbage motors I could use there instead. Their shaft lengths aren't _quite_ the same, which I suspect _will_ come to bite me later, but that's a problem for future Koz to worry about.
29/n
-
@3dprinting The eagle-eyed among you might have noticed that the Speedys are gone from the Z axis. This is indeed what has happened, as the dual-Y mod is _definitely_ a better use of Speedys. I managed to find some random garbage motors I could use there instead. Their shaft lengths aren't _quite_ the same, which I suspect _will_ come to bite me later, but that's a problem for future Koz to worry about.
29/n
@3dprinting The wise among you might be scratching your heads right now. "How the hell is he planning to run dual Y _and_ dual Z off a Cheetah?"
Yes, that could be a problem for sure. However, I already figured out a solution to this, in probably _the_ stupidest way possible. I'll explain that next post.
Meanwhile, let's skip even _more_ steps and print the mirrored Y tensioner from Stage 2. Otherwise, I have a _very_ loose corner, and it bothers me.
30/n
-
@3dprinting The wise among you might be scratching your heads right now. "How the hell is he planning to run dual Y _and_ dual Z off a Cheetah?"
Yes, that could be a problem for sure. However, I already figured out a solution to this, in probably _the_ stupidest way possible. I'll explain that next post.
Meanwhile, let's skip even _more_ steps and print the mirrored Y tensioner from Stage 2. Otherwise, I have a _very_ loose corner, and it bothers me.
30/n
@3dprinting To explain how on earth I plan to run 6 motors, we need to consider power. The Ender 5 comes with a single LRS-350-24, which is _definitely_ going to fall short with all my upgrades. I _do_ have an HS-250-24 lying around, which would give me the power I need, but the Cheetah only has one input for power.
The solution? Double up with the original board! I can run one with the LRS, the other with the HS.
Sounds crazy? Yes, but let me explain.
31/n
-
@3dprinting To explain how on earth I plan to run 6 motors, we need to consider power. The Ender 5 comes with a single LRS-350-24, which is _definitely_ going to fall short with all my upgrades. I _do_ have an HS-250-24 lying around, which would give me the power I need, but the Cheetah only has one input for power.
The solution? Double up with the original board! I can run one with the LRS, the other with the HS.
Sounds crazy? Yes, but let me explain.
31/n
@3dprinting Given that the heated bed wants 220W, I can drive it from the original board with the HS-250-24. In addition to that, I can drive the E motor from that board, as the poor little 0.9 degree pancake I'm running there is 1A peak, which means something like 0.7A RMS. That's pushing my luck a tad, but _should_ fit into the HS.
32/n
-
@3dprinting Given that the heated bed wants 220W, I can drive it from the original board with the HS-250-24. In addition to that, I can drive the E motor from that board, as the poor little 0.9 degree pancake I'm running there is 1A peak, which means something like 0.7A RMS. That's pushing my luck a tad, but _should_ fit into the HS.
32/n
@3dprinting _Everything else_ can come off the Cheetah, run using the LRS-350-24. This gives me four steppers, one of which has two motor connections. That means I have a dedicated driver for _each_ Speedy, and then I can share the garbage Zs.
I am a _touch_ bottlenecked given such mighty motors here. The Cheetah has soldered-on TMC2209s, which have 2A peak current, while the Speedys can tolerate 2.5A peak. This will limit their performance some, but hey, this whole build is jank anyway.
33/n
-
@3dprinting _Everything else_ can come off the Cheetah, run using the LRS-350-24. This gives me four steppers, one of which has two motor connections. That means I have a dedicated driver for _each_ Speedy, and then I can share the garbage Zs.
I am a _touch_ bottlenecked given such mighty motors here. The Cheetah has soldered-on TMC2209s, which have 2A peak current, while the Speedys can tolerate 2.5A peak. This will limit their performance some, but hey, this whole build is jank anyway.
33/n
@3dprinting Now, my original plan was to have a swingout electronics box with a 7 inch touchscreen I had lying around. Obviously with all these boards, this isn't really viable anymore.
However, with those feet, we now have an actual electronics well, which _should_ fit both the PSUs and boards, just. Then, the swingout electronics box can just house the BPi running Klipper and the screen.
Easier wiring, less designing, perfect!
34/n
-
@3dprinting Now, my original plan was to have a swingout electronics box with a 7 inch touchscreen I had lying around. Obviously with all these boards, this isn't really viable anymore.
However, with those feet, we now have an actual electronics well, which _should_ fit both the PSUs and boards, just. Then, the swingout electronics box can just house the BPi running Klipper and the screen.
Easier wiring, less designing, perfect!
34/n
@3dprinting With that in mind, I need DIN rails, as well as a way to cut them. Luckily, we can crib lengths from the Mercury One project, and I do have a local source for DIN rail.
Guess who is _also_ the proud owner of a new reciprocating saw?
35/n
-
@3dprinting With that in mind, I need DIN rails, as well as a way to cut them. Luckily, we can crib lengths from the Mercury One project, and I do have a local source for DIN rail.
Guess who is _also_ the proud owner of a new reciprocating saw?
35/n
@3dprinting One rather _annoying_ aspect of the Mercury One is that their electronics enclosure (or well) has _zero_ documentation attached to it. No BOM, no instructions. While you _can_ get the CAD through their base Mercury One repository, this took me some searching to find.
I'll have to pull the CAD model to find out both what mounts they're using for their DIN rails, and how long said rails have to be. Nice to see this project _also_ apes awful Voron documentation practices.
36/n
-
@3dprinting One rather _annoying_ aspect of the Mercury One is that their electronics enclosure (or well) has _zero_ documentation attached to it. No BOM, no instructions. While you _can_ get the CAD through their base Mercury One repository, this took me some searching to find.
I'll have to pull the CAD model to find out both what mounts they're using for their DIN rails, and how long said rails have to be. Nice to see this project _also_ apes awful Voron documentation practices.
36/n
@3dprinting While I wait for filament, I finally got the idlers I needed to finish Stage 1. I haven't bothered putting the pulley on the X motor, or belting anything, because I'd have to un-belt everything for later Stages anyway.
37/n
-
J jwcph@helvede.net shared this topic
