Today I've begun a new project using some of the vintage tsumugi silk I found a while ago.
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Today I've begun a new project using some of the vintage tsumugi silk I found a while ago. As you can see, this tanmono isn't perfect. There's a rip in it very near the beginning of the bolt, which is easily avoided. The camera doesn't do this silk justice at all. It's a deep, deep indigo and black. But the silk is light as a feather. #Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing
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Today I've begun a new project using some of the vintage tsumugi silk I found a while ago. As you can see, this tanmono isn't perfect. There's a rip in it very near the beginning of the bolt, which is easily avoided. The camera doesn't do this silk justice at all. It's a deep, deep indigo and black. But the silk is light as a feather. #Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing
I'm thinking of playing around a little with the standard kimono structure. I'd like something that has a kimono shape, but on the wide side, and perhaps mid-calf length, that can be worn open as a loose, light, long jacket over a dress. This is always the challenge - to make shapes people will wear casually and without feeling like they're wearing a costume. #Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing
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Today I've begun a new project using some of the vintage tsumugi silk I found a while ago. As you can see, this tanmono isn't perfect. There's a rip in it very near the beginning of the bolt, which is easily avoided. The camera doesn't do this silk justice at all. It's a deep, deep indigo and black. But the silk is light as a feather. #Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing
@Remittancegirl It's absolutely beautiful.
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@Remittancegirl It's absolutely beautiful.
@liebach It really is. These silks were produced in the early 1960s, dyed and woven by hand. The selvages are not particularly straight, and in some places, the dye has faded a little after washing, but I find them more beautiful for all of that. It's venerable material to be working with. And my motivation is to let this silk flutter on someone's moving body instead of rotting in a warehouse.
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I'm thinking of playing around a little with the standard kimono structure. I'd like something that has a kimono shape, but on the wide side, and perhaps mid-calf length, that can be worn open as a loose, light, long jacket over a dress. This is always the challenge - to make shapes people will wear casually and without feeling like they're wearing a costume. #Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing
At first I thought I'd make a haori - which lacks the overlap pieces on the front edges. But I like the okumi pieces - when worn open, they hang and flap in a pleasing way. Of course, this gets in the way with a traditional, kimono length garment, but I figure if I go for something shorter - a bit above the ankle - perhaps I can get a kind of loose, casual look.
The kimono cut you see today is not as ancient as you'd think. -
At first I thought I'd make a haori - which lacks the overlap pieces on the front edges. But I like the okumi pieces - when worn open, they hang and flap in a pleasing way. Of course, this gets in the way with a traditional, kimono length garment, but I figure if I go for something shorter - a bit above the ankle - perhaps I can get a kind of loose, casual look.
The kimono cut you see today is not as ancient as you'd think.What we have come to think of as a classic kimono, with their length hiked up under a massive obi is fairly recent. Earlier kimonos were belted with much simpler, narrower belts, and they were shorter - fabric was too expensive to hide, folded up, under an obi! #Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing
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What we have come to think of as a classic kimono, with their length hiked up under a massive obi is fairly recent. Earlier kimonos were belted with much simpler, narrower belts, and they were shorter - fabric was too expensive to hide, folded up, under an obi! #Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing
@Remittancegirl The kimono my Japanese family insisted I purchase in Japan has multiple belts that are a lot thinner than I was expecting...thought maybe it's just because I'm so much larger/taller than them
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What we have come to think of as a classic kimono, with their length hiked up under a massive obi is fairly recent. Earlier kimonos were belted with much simpler, narrower belts, and they were shorter - fabric was too expensive to hide, folded up, under an obi! #Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing
@Remittancegirl same for kilts in Scotland. Before the 20th century kilts were worn above the knee.
No wonder Queen Victoria demanded all her staff wore kilts! -
What we have come to think of as a classic kimono, with their length hiked up under a massive obi is fairly recent. Earlier kimonos were belted with much simpler, narrower belts, and they were shorter - fabric was too expensive to hide, folded up, under an obi! #Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing
Behold the architectural beauty of a kimono structure: the entire garment cut from a tanmono, with a single 20 x 40 cm piece to spare (which is tucked into the collar to give it more structure, out of a 12 meter roll.
#Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanmono -
Behold the architectural beauty of a kimono structure: the entire garment cut from a tanmono, with a single 20 x 40 cm piece to spare (which is tucked into the collar to give it more structure, out of a 12 meter roll.
#Kimono #kosode #rethinking #sewing https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TanmonoI cannot think of many other garments that are so respectful and economical with woven fabric. Perhaps the sleeves might seem a little opulent, but hey, they double as very large pockets.
I have indulged in flights of fantasy of conversations between kimono tailors and silk weavers:
Weaver: "what's with those fucking enormous sleeves."
Tailor: *shrug*
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