Procrastinated getting back to the bodice & sleeve basic block fitting by ordering supplies for a nice little corset.
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I don't really actually need a third Early Edwardian style corset, but I wanted to remake the Little Emma button corset I made earlier this year, with a busk and better embroidery than I did. And in a nice white woman beige, I thought that would be a nice base for some linen (material & colour) lace and linen (colour) plus white embroidery. We'll see.
Now, if I could somehow bring myself to get back to the Trials of the Sleeve... It's really close to being so good, but I'm also bored with all the minute adjustments and doing the same thing again and again, so I might try to change it up some by drafting a basic standing collar, see how that affects the fit. Ideally I'd also make a right sleeve also, and see if the same sleeve works on both sides, as my right shoulder is quite different from the left one. But perhaps I'll just stare out the window a bit instead.
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Now, if I could somehow bring myself to get back to the Trials of the Sleeve... It's really close to being so good, but I'm also bored with all the minute adjustments and doing the same thing again and again, so I might try to change it up some by drafting a basic standing collar, see how that affects the fit. Ideally I'd also make a right sleeve also, and see if the same sleeve works on both sides, as my right shoulder is quite different from the left one. But perhaps I'll just stare out the window a bit instead.
Did take a look through multiple old pattern drafting manuals to see how they say you should draft a standing collar, decided I'd just wing it based on vague memories from pattern drafting classes in 2008 or so... And just eyeballed a collar that fits almost perfectly into the neck opening of the bodice, just based on what I felt like it should be shaped like. And now I must try it on.
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Did take a look through multiple old pattern drafting manuals to see how they say you should draft a standing collar, decided I'd just wing it based on vague memories from pattern drafting classes in 2008 or so... And just eyeballed a collar that fits almost perfectly into the neck opening of the bodice, just based on what I felt like it should be shaped like. And now I must try it on.
Putting on the collar has revealed new and exciting issues with the neck opening and also the fit of the sleeve! I thought it would and was correct, so now I get to puzzle those out.
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Putting on the collar has revealed new and exciting issues with the neck opening and also the fit of the sleeve! I thought it would and was correct, so now I get to puzzle those out.
Oh, I've also completely forgotten how to stand normally and how I usually hold my arm. This knowledge is just gone, how do humans arms
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Oh, I've also completely forgotten how to stand normally and how I usually hold my arm. This knowledge is just gone, how do humans arms
Latest news on the sleeve front: I've regrettably decided that I want to move the back seam of the two part sleeve higher up, because I like how it intersects with a bodice seam when making jackets, and want the basic sleeve block to have that baked in... There's instructions for how to do this, no issue, but the regrettable part is that I'm gonna have to make a third sleeve mock-up! Might as well make two, so I have both sleeves.
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Latest news on the sleeve front: I've regrettably decided that I want to move the back seam of the two part sleeve higher up, because I like how it intersects with a bodice seam when making jackets, and want the basic sleeve block to have that baked in... There's instructions for how to do this, no issue, but the regrettable part is that I'm gonna have to make a third sleeve mock-up! Might as well make two, so I have both sleeves.
Pattern changes done, new paper patterns cut out, the rest must follow later.
It was delightful and bizarre how my slightly weird looking pattern started looking less and less weird (for 1895) as I was shifting things around... And at some point, the elbow line normalised completely? I didn't even do anything to it specifically, everything I messed with on the sleeve cap made it work out. I even sort of have correct grain lines now, remarkable.
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Pattern changes done, new paper patterns cut out, the rest must follow later.
It was delightful and bizarre how my slightly weird looking pattern started looking less and less weird (for 1895) as I was shifting things around... And at some point, the elbow line normalised completely? I didn't even do anything to it specifically, everything I messed with on the sleeve cap made it work out. I even sort of have correct grain lines now, remarkable.
I wish I had a videographer and editor on standby because I could go on at length, at great speed, with many hand motions, about everything I've done to the sleeve pattern sequentially. It would go very well with Flight of the Bumblebee, and some graphs and a board full of red string
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I wish I had a videographer and editor on standby because I could go on at length, at great speed, with many hand motions, about everything I've done to the sleeve pattern sequentially. It would go very well with Flight of the Bumblebee, and some graphs and a board full of red string
Keystone Cutter my beloved, you always have me
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J jwcph@helvede.net shared this topic
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Keystone Cutter my beloved, you always have me
In sleeve land: I've cut out the third mock-up for the sleeve, now as two sleeves. It's not entirely feasible for actual final layers that are visible, but it's really nice to go over every seam allowance and other marking with vivid colourful contrasting thread so you can immediately see (and feel) where a seam or a marking is, and it doesn't shift or rub off when you're handling the pieces and doing fittings. It's nice.
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In sleeve land: I've cut out the third mock-up for the sleeve, now as two sleeves. It's not entirely feasible for actual final layers that are visible, but it's really nice to go over every seam allowance and other marking with vivid colourful contrasting thread so you can immediately see (and feel) where a seam or a marking is, and it doesn't shift or rub off when you're handling the pieces and doing fittings. It's nice.
The sleeve mock-ups look lovely and well behaved now, before I've set them into the arm's eyes and they become wrinkled and shronkled and skrinkled.
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The sleeve mock-ups look lovely and well behaved now, before I've set them into the arm's eyes and they become wrinkled and shronkled and skrinkled.
Holy shit, it's so close! There's some excess height in the sleeve head, since I made ample room for my pointy shoulder in draft number three... But it's so close!
Next up: A break to maintain the flesh vessel, reducing the shoulder excess, moving the button above the bust, determining wrist length and figuring out the neck! Fitting GIFs.
